Aug 16 - Aug 23

We have had an amazing set of days since leaving Swans Island. On Sunday (after a morning trip to the quarry) we jumped over to Frenchboro (on Long Island) and spent two nights there. Wednesday we ran up to Southwest Harbor to provision and then moved up to Valley Cove (in Somes Sound). After two great days there we began our return back down the coast looking for a good harbor to sit out the effects of Hurricane Bill which passed offshore Saturday night. We found a great spot in Laundry Cove, on the island of Isle au Haut. Across these days we’ve enjoyed all the fruits of cruising in Maine – easy sailing, challenging fog, great hiking, and bracing swims.


Hiking has figured prominently in our shore activities and Frenchboro provided us with great trail choices. Sunday afternoon we headed out on a trail that left from the harbor and ran around the northern headlands. The trail wound through a lush spruce forest, carpetted with bright green moss and punctuated with great views of the rocky coast. At the end of the trail we arrived at a beach made entirely of smoothly rounded stones. The girls were intrepid enough to take a few short swims while the boys made stone forts that were slowly engulfed by the rising tide. On Monday we traversed the island and followed a trail to Rich’s Head. The isthmus connecting the main part of the island and this extension was again made of rounded stone, but was also strewn with a panoply of items washed up by storms – lobster traps, floats of various colors, plastic bottles and containers, and driftwood of all shapes and sizes. While these trinkets were fun to explore, the real treasure was discovered on our trek back along the southern coast. On our return we found over a dozen full sea urchin shells … and we never had to leave the trail. They were all located in the grass and underbrush near the trees lining the coast. Evidently, birds must take their finds into the trees to eat and then drop the remaining shell. We will now think twice about scanning the tideline for these delicate treasures, and rather look to the woods. Such are the unique and interesting discoveries that lend wonder to every hike.

Along the Deep Cove Trail

After stopping in Southwest Harbor to fill our pantry and “fridge” (and indulge in warm water showers ashore), we headed into Somes Sound – the closest thing to a fjord that you can find in New England. Here too we found an amazing anchorage with great hikes right at hand. Just up from the mouth of the sound can be found Valley Cove. Valley Peak and St. Sauvier Mountain rise up steeply out of the water and tower over the cove. The protected nature of this cove made it perfect for kayak excursions and the warm sunny weather enticed us all to take quick dips – Josie, Jeremiah, and Catherine even swam to shore. On Thursday all of us headed ashore and hiked along the Valley Cove Trail and then up and back along the Valley Peak Trail. This gave us a great view of Ohana in the cove and the Cranberry Islands in the distance.

Valley Cove Trail w/Ohana in the distance

From St. Sauvier Mt.
(Ohana is the boat to the right of the others)

Friday morning, Catherine and I took the dinghy back to Southwest Harbor to pick up some more provisions. We had hoped to pull into a little cove close to the food mart, but the fog was so thick we couldn’t find the entrance and ended back at the town dock in the harbor. Thankfully there is a free bus that runs around Acadia and so when our bags were full we were able to catch a ride back to the dock. The same fog made it quite a challenge to navigate out though the Cranberry Islands and then over the Bass Harbor bar. Nevertheless, once we were in Bull Hills Bay we were able to raise the main and run out the genoa. As odd as it might sound, sailing in fog is much easier than running with the motor. It is easier to hear the motors of other boats, and although it is still important to dodge lobster buoys, the fear of having one get wrapped in the prop lessens. Thanks to the wonder of GPS and radar we navigate all the way to Isle au Haut, where the fog lifted just as we began our approach. Threading almost blindly between the shoals, ledges, large rocks and small islands that make up so much of this area took a great deal of concentration. It is hard to imagine the skill it took decades and centuries past to work these waters safely.

With gale warnings in effect for Saturday night and Sunday and predictions of the seas to build to 20 plus feet, it felt great to get ourselves tucked into Laundry Cove on Isle au Haut. It had a nice mud bottom for great holding, and with only a few local boats moored in one corner, we could run out a lot of scope and still have room to swing safely. Additionally, Flake and Kimball Islands frame the northwest and west/southwest sides of the cove, cutting off any swells running in from the ocean. Although the gale warning came about because of Hurricane Bill passing offshore on Sunday, we had stronger winds on Friday night. (In fact we heard that a few tornadoes touched down in southern Maine that evening.) Saturday provided dry enough weather to explore the part of Acadia National Park that makes up more than half of this island. Saturday night proved quite uneventful with some wind and heavy downpours passing through every so often. By ten the next morning the skies had cleared and we were able to pump out the dinghy and go ashore. The locals were all commenting on the size of the breakers rolling in from the ocean, so we hiked out to an old lighthouse that is now privately owned. The owners, who had run a B&B for years on the property (and now have it up for sale … any takers?), said they had never seen such large waves. Sitting high on the rocks, watching the crashing white water, and feeling the spray left us all in awe of the power and the beauty of the sea. A feeling I am sure we will run deep in us by the end of our adventure.


- Peter

Watching the surf

Yikes! That's a big one!


Isle au Haut Light

Aug 16

Usually when you think of swimming on an island you think of swimming in the ocean, right? Well on Swans Island there was an alternative to the numbing, salty Maine ocean water -- a freshwater filled quarry. A long abandoned granite quarry had been completely transformed into a popular swim place. Complete with a diving platform and conveniently places strings of buoys that divided the quarry into thirds, the quarry offers swimming for everyone young and old. To one side a little jetty of rocks provides the perfect stairs, jumping platform and sitting spot (for those who didn’t want to swim themselves and for those who have finished swimming). Why would anyone want to leave the water? It was quite warm and refreshing. The big dark rocks around the quarry made the perfect lounging surface for any swimmer looking for a warm perch. While the quarry isn’t crowded, there is always someone diving or cannon-balling or just goofing off. That’s why everyone loves it.

- Catherine

Aug 15

For this trip I have set a few goals for myself including: learn how to french braid hair, perform a good dive, understand roman numerals, get to the top of the mast, and spend a night on deck. In this last week I have accomplished two of these goals – nearly perfecting my dive and getting to the top of the mast.

I was hoisted to the top of the mast while we were at Bucks Harbor. This was a very nerve racking experience. My task was to attach a block to the top of the mast by using a U-bolt. Once I got the block attached my job was to tie the thumb screw to the rest of body of the U-bolt, to keep it from coming loose. As soon as I learned the details of my mission I was harnessed in and Dad started to crank me up the mast. When I reached the first set of spreaders I was relieved to be able to put me feet down and take some deep breaths before continuing on to the next set. I am not normally afraid of heights, but when I was up there with out anywhere to put my hands or feet except for around the mast it was very scary. Once I left the second set of spreaders the next stop was the top of the mast. The view from up there probably would have been very nice, if I could have thought of anything except for, Wow! that would be a far drop. Finally, after a bunch of knot tying, thumbscrew screwing, and deep breath taking, it was time to come down. Man, I was glad to have my feet back down on the deck. That was one goal to check off my list.

The next goal was completed two days later at Swans Island. On the island there is an old quarry full of fresh water which is great for swimming. It is very deep and there is a float in the middle. The whole family swam out and took turns diving, or cannon-balling, or belly flopping off the platform. I was very surprised and proud at how good my first dive turned out. I got the hang of it right away. This was the first time I have ever felt confident with my diving, before I would mostly do belly flops or something else with a big splash. Now I will be able to neatly dive off the boat all the way from Maine to the Caribbean.

- Josephine

This is the picture I took from the second set of spreaders. After this point I was not brave enough to let go of the mast to take a picture.

This picture Catherine took from the deck when I was at the second set of spreaders.

This is me at the top of the mast trying to get everything to come
together without dropping anything.

Aug 13 - Aug 14

We sailed for four hours down Eggemoggin Reach from Bucks Harbor to Bear Island. We got there and put down the anchor at six o’clock. While we dropped the anchor, Dad’s right pinkie finger got caught between the chain and the roller. I got an ice pack for him. After that we had dinner and then we went for a look. We decided that it was too buggy, so we headed back. Dad promised that we would explore the next day.

The next day we got up and ate breakfast and then after breakfast we set out on an adventure. We went in kayaks and a dinghy. On the island we found a whole lot of sea urchins and sea urchin’s shells, snail shells too and a whole bunch of muscle shells. After that we walked around a bit and then we found a sea star. It was bright pink. It was a really nice island.

- Xavier




Ohana at Bear Island, ME (southeastern end of Eggemoggin Reach)






Tide pool (sea urchin near center of picture)

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Live sea urchin and a shell we found.



Sea star among muscles.

Aug 8 - North Haven Island

When our family landed on North Haven island the main street was crowded with people, so we decided to see what was going on. We discovered that it was Community Days and they were about to have a “Codfish Relay.” The point of the relay was to dress as a fisherman and carry a huge cod back and forth four times. The rules were that you had to have at least one strap of the overalls on, both arms in the oilskin coat, and you couldn’t help your partners dress or undress. There were four teams and they didn’t have enough clothes for four teams so they did two teams at a time. Some people whizzed by. Some jogged past. In the last race the cod’s head almost snapped off. “Cod-dangit!” (the winners) had some fast runners and some people that could get the clothes on fast. This is why they won. It was a great race and we were happy we saw it.

- Jeremiah


The start



The speed



The cheering crowd




The determination




The guts (and the head ... and tail).

Aug 5 - Aug 7

We have made it to Penobscot Bay and have had some great sailing weather. We also had one scary incident that has reminded us all of the power of the wind and reintroduced us to the kind and helpful nature of the people of Maine.

With the battery/electrical problem sorted out, we left Boothbay Harbor for a short sail around Linekin Neck to Christmas Cove. We poked along with light winds and through heavy fog arriving in the late afternoon. The next day dawned clear and bright with winds forecasted between 5 to 10 knots out of the southwest, so we decided to set out for Tenants Harbor. We had a great run across the mouth of Muscongus Bay and up into Penobscot.

Everything was going smoothly until a few miles outside Tenants Harbor we snagged a lobster pot buoy on our keel . We had been on downwind run with the mainsail well out over the port side, but in the commotion of trying to come free of the pot the sail gybed. As the boom whipped from one side to the other it picked up enough force to snap the large bronze snap shackle holding the mainsheet to the traveler. The loose shackle and block then hit Xavier in the head, knocking him across the cockpit and leaving him with a nasty gash on his temple. With Eliza tending to Xavier, everyone else helped get control of the sail, drop it, and get the motor running. We were then able to call for an ambulance to meet us in Tenants Harbor.

The kindness and generosity that met us in Tenants Harbor was amazing. The harbor master shuttled the EMTs out to us, so they could attend to Xavier before we docked. He then led us to a commercial dock at Cods End market because there was more water there than off the town landing. Many hands were there at Cods End and they helped us bring Ohana alongside. As a sudden downpour began, the rest of the St. George Fire and Rescue team ignored the rain and helped bring Xavier off the boat and up to the ambulance. Once Xavier, together with Eliza and Jeremiah, departed for the hospital in Rockport, the people at Cods End found us a local lobsterman's mooring that we could use for the night. Dealing with such a accident at home would have been trying enough, in an unknown place it could have been much more difficult. Thankfully everyone we met helped things go smoothly, their calm attitude and patient demeanor allowed us to focus our energies on helping Xavier.

Xavier ended up with five stitches and a “wicked” black eye. He stayed with Eliza and Jeremiah at a hotel in Rockland that night and the girls and I motored the boat up the next morning. We plan on taking it easy for the next few days, sailing over to Northhaven, Vinalhaven, or the White Islands before returning to Rockport to have XB’s stitches removed. We will take time to talk about what happened, how it has affected all of us, and what steps we can take to sail more safely over the coming months.

- Peter.

July 29 and August 04

Here is a dogshark. His home is at the Maine State
Aquarium which we visited today. This aquarium was very small,
only one room, just barely big enough to accommodate the giant
lobster which looked about 30 pounds.

Here are the four of us in front of the trout tank not looking
all that excited to get our picture taken.

It is Xavier's birthday, the first one to be celebrated
on the boat!!!!!!!!!!

Xavier used some of his birthday presents very
creatively to create this castle, which even has a tree swing.

Here we are at the Aquarium touch tank touching
the dogsharks, who, surprisingly enjoyed being touched.

July 29-August 02

Marblehead to Newburyport to Boothbay Harbor, ME. Our trip started out like any day-sailing trip, we started by visiting Lovell and George’s Islands. The next day was back to the dock in Winthrop to tie up loose ends and then out again.
Thursday night we anchored at Great Misery Island, near Manchester Bay, Mass. The next day we sailed from Misery to Newburyport - Black Rock Creek to be exact. There we swam/kayaked ashore and hung out on the beach. Around 2 o’clock we left Newburyport and set sail for Pemaquid Point on our first overnight.
Wait ... how did we end up at Boothbay you ask? Well, I’ll tell you. So we start out sailing and but when we went to use the auto pilot it crashed. Then the new GPS/Radar started acting weird so we pull out the old GPS and then the digital compass started acting up. So I sat there reading off the ever changing directions that the GPS says we were going. Finally Dad diagnosised the problem to a failure in the house batteries. To fix this we ran the engine. With the digital compass back I was relieved of my tedious job. After only a short while Josie and I both headed down to the bed that we shared for the night. When Jeremiah’s shift ended I headed up on deck to take his place. My shift-from 12 to 3 was filled with bumps and wobbles and flapping sails. I took the wheel for some time while Dad rigged preventor and yes you guessed it "prevents" the boom from swinging around too much. When my shift ended I went and woke up Josie and then just fell into bed. I woke up and we were anchored. I assumed we were in Pemaquid but when I looked out of the companion way(staircase opening) there were the masts of the latest boat being worked on in Boothbay Harbour Shipyard. When I inquire as to why we were in Boothbay not Pemaquid I was informed that Boothbay has better places to buy boat batteries than Pemaquid. So that’s how it all happened and here we are now in Boothbay enjoying the thrill of revisiting an intriguing town full of wonders in the forms of shops and boats and sights. Our adventure has just begun.
-Catherine